good for you

Pale tufts of native pampas grass shimmer in the breeze as you and your faithful mount ride upon rocky hills, over gently rushing streams, past aged and mossy stone fences and up to soft peaks with views over Argentina's sierras chicas. At the end of your ride, staff greets you with a fortifying beverage and you retire to the fireside with your book until cocktail hour.

This is life at Estancia Los Potreros, a 6000 acre working cattle farm that has remained in the same Anglo-Argentine family for four generations. The homestead features seven cosy guest rooms, decorated in Argentinean rustic charm and country hospitality is a featured at the plentiful table while you enjoy the lovely horses and the calm daily rhythms of a farm.

Horseriding is the main focus here and there are a number of excellent rides on the farm and its surrounds, taking in local churches dating from the time of the Jesuit missions, as well as nearby wineries. You get to help out on the farm while you're enjoying the scenery, rounding up the foals to keep them safe from pumas for the evening, or if you stay for a few days, you can try your hand at a polo match.

However, for the non-rider there are also plenty of walks, and the estancia is wonderful for bird watching. There's a swimming pool for the warm months and cosy fires in every room for the winter.

good for argentina

Kevin Begg and Louisa Begg are pioneers in Argentina's as-yet under-developed tourism industry, and are showing how to do it sustainably. Both a working farm and a provincial nature reserve, the Angus cattle graze on native grasses that are never artificially fertilised or sprayed. Water comes from the farm's own plentiful supply, electricity is used sparingly, and partially supplied by wind and sun, while wood stoves and open fires heat the buildings. The farm grows some of its own organic fruits and vegetables, while other products are bought as locally as possible. The horses are bred and trained without cruelty and are in excellent condition. Host and co-owner Kevin Begg was brought up on the farm, and his Anglo-Argentine family as been in the country for nearly two centuries. He shares plenty of stories about his own and the country's history.

Rooms

Food

Meals, all included in the tariff, are served in the dining room around the big wooden table, giving you a chance to talk to your hosts and fellow guests. You will eat well at Los Potreros, the food is hearty and plentiful. The farm supplies some of its own organic meats, fruits and vegetables which are supplemented by local suppliers. When weather permits, meals often feature a good supply of freshly barbecued meats.

Breakfast begins at 8am and happens whenever you wake up. Bircher muesli and fresh fruit are followed by toasted home-made bread and bacon and eggs, along with tea and coffee.

Lunch is at 1 o'clock, and begins with a drink and some olives or crackers, followed by a two-course meal - empanadas (typically Argentine pastry parcels filled with meat, cheese or corn) served with salad, or roast chicken, or steak followed by a delicious home-made plum tart or cr me caramel.

Afternoon tea or coffee and cake is served at 4 pm to fortify you for your afternoon ride.

Dinner at 8 follows a cocktail in the lounge room and is again, a set menu of roast beef and potatoes, or pork with leek sauce.

The estancia serves its own label of wine, produced by a local winery.

Vegetarians and others with special dietary requirements are catered for with notice.

Features & Facilities

• Some 80 riding horses - you'll be matched with one that suits your level. The horses are in excellent condition and are very well trained.
• Riding equipment, all in good condition.
• Polo field and equipment
• Swimming pool
• Wireless internet in the rooms (except the separate honeymoon suite) and the lounge
• No phones, but you can borrow the hotel phone if you need it (extra charge). There is no normal cell phone coverage here.
• A collection of novels and non-fiction literature in some rooms and in the lounge.

Local Info & Activities

The estancia is large - 6,00 acres - and isolated, so you'll spend most, if not all, of your time here.

Horse rides generally take place twice a day, and last for 2-4 hours. During the summer, all-day picnic rides are frequent event. Overnight excursions and longer expeditions can be arranged, allowing you to explore more of the area.

Most of the horses are bred on the estancia. They are all well-mannered and in excellent health, and most are Criollos or Paso Peruanos. You ride in English saddles with sheepskin on top for extra comfort, and riding is western style. Horses are chosen to suit the rider. All rides are led by guides equipped with water and first aid kits.

Hundreds of bird species can be observed at the estancia, including vultures and eagles, brightly coloured hummingbirds and even the majestic condors that have begun to return to the region.

Other wildlife includes native hares and foxes, and the more elusive wild boar, puma and small deer.

There are three excellent golf courses nearby. Off-site activities such as mountain biking, dove shooting and paragliding can also be arranged upon request.

Most visitors will come to the estancia through Cordoba City, the provincial capital and Argentina's second-largest city after Buenos Aires. Some 50 km from the estancia, the town is worth spending a day in on your way to or from Los Potreros. The Manzana Jesuitica, or Jesuit Block, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The group of buildings dating from 1645 comprise the university, the church and residence of the Society of Jesus, and the college. The buildings display a fascinating blend of European and indigenous artistic traditions, and the university houses part of the Jesuits' enormous library and a museum. The Jesuit experiment carried out in this part of South America is a fascinating episode in history and one well worth exploring. Also heritage-listed are five Jesuit estancias close to Cordoba that are worth visiting for those who have time.

insider tips

The summer months bring warm weather and frequent rainstorms (every three days), and plenty of wild flowers. The winter is mostly dry, with the sun warming you on your rides and the temperature dropping at night.

Bring outdoor gear, including rainwear and comfortable pants for riding, along with boots and walking shoes. Bring a bathing suit for the pool.

There is no cash machine on the farm and the nearest town is 45 minutes along a dirt road, so bring everything you need for your stay.

Sustainability

The estancia endeavours to operate both its cattle breeding and hospitality business with respect for the local community and the environment.

The farmhouse is powered by wind and sun - only when these are unavailable or in short supply does the power switch over to a generator that runs on petrol.

Located on a Provincial Reserve, the 100% organic farm is a protected area. No hunting or shooting is allowed and wild animals are unmolested. Calves and foals are protected from pumas.

Water is sourced from natural springs on the farm. No pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilisers are used, and the land is never over-grazed, allowing native grasses to regenerate. Wherever possible, fruit, vegetables and herbs are grown in the estancia's own gardens and orchards, and organic free-range eggs are supplied by the farm's chickens.

The estancia has initiated a tree-planting program so that guests can offset the carbon generated by their trip.

The horses and cattle lead as natural a life as possible, living in a herd environment and eating only natural grasses - no feed supplements or growth hormones are used.

A largely local staff is employed at the estancia - on the cattle farm, in the kitchen and as horse riding guides. The estancia has for many years supported the local rural school. Guests are welcome to donate to the school - donations have helped provide the school with a solar power panel, a well, an orchard and a bread oven. The estancia purchases supplies from local producers and merchants wherever possible.

The estancia boasts several historic buildings, some more than 300 years old and built by Jesuit missionaries. Care is taken to restore them in sympathy with the original construction, where possible.

Getting There

Los Potreros is located 1 1/2 hours north of Cordoba off the E53, or 1 hour north of Cordoba airport. Los Poetreros will transfer guests from either Cordoba bus station or airport and this is included in the rates.

public transport

Excellent comfortable long distance buses take you from Retiro station in Buenos Aires to Cordoba. The ride is 9 hours. Overnight "super-cama" buses with chairs that lie back to 180-degrees run frequently between the two cities.

There are also daily flights from Buenos Aires to Cordoba.

Visit our Transport section for flights, hybrid car rentals and train bookings.

Rates & Bookings

Book well in advance for busy seasons (Christmas, New year, Easter and most of the summer), especially if you are travelling as a group. The estancia is closed in May.

2007 - US$260 per person per night

2008

US$340 per person per night

• Children under 16 get a 20% discount.
• Children under 6 receive a discount of 50%
• There is a minimum stay of 3 nights and 5 nights over Christmas, New Year and Easter period.
• Single supplement is 30% extra on the standard rate.

• Transfers to and from Cordoba airport or bus station
• All meals and drinks
• All activities, daily horse riding etc

camping & riding packages

Los Potreros offers camping and riding packages that involve 2 or 3 nights away from the Estancia, staying in either home stays or camping. Up to 4-6 hours riding per day and cultural tours are included. Please enquire to The Good Travel Company for further details.

booking & cancellation policy

• Payment of 65% of total cost of booking is required in order to secure a booking. The remaining 35% is due 30 days prior to arrival date.
• Cancellations made 90 days prior to arrival will involve a full refund less US$250 per person and 10% of entire cost of stay.
• Cancellations made 30-90 days prior to arrival date will result in the loss of the 65% deposit.
• Cancellations made less than 30 days prior to arrival will result in the loss of the entire cost of stay.

Want to avoid cancellation fees? Visit our Insurance section for information on travel insurance.