The Mukuba Express

The Journey

This cross-country train trip between New Kapiri Mposhi, 126km north of Lusaka, and Dar es Salaam travels along the 1,860km long Tazara railway line. Initially built by the Chinese to enable Zambia to export its copper, the railway has been a major conduit in the region and is an integral part of the Southern Africa region rail network. It’s also a lifeline to the numerous villages that line the tracks and the stations are vibrant, buzzy places packed with folk trying to sell you all manner of snacks and goodies.

The two Tazara trains are the “Mukuba Express” (mukuba means copper in the Bemba language) and “Kilimanjaro Express”. These depart New Kapiri Mposhi on Tuesday and Friday afternoons arriving in Dar es Salaam roughly 40 hours later. That said, African trains are notorious for running late and it’s not uncommon for delays of up to 12 hours to occur, something that’s worth bearing in mind when you’re booking tickets. Both trains offer 1st class sleepers with 4-berth compartments, 2nd class sleepers with 6-berth compartments and 3rd class economy seats.

While it’s true that the trains and the track have seen better days, a journey by rail between Kapiri Mposhi at 1400m above sea level to the East African port of Dar es Salaam is still a must-do journey. It’s colourful, chaotic and totally charming.

From New Kapiri Mposhi the train rattles through central and northern Zambia and the area that is widely considered to be the heartland of the Bemba, a people who comprise one of the largest tribes in Zambia. The landscape is pretty and the sunsets other-worldly but it’s once you cross the border into Tanzania that the scenery really gets interesting.

Once the Tazara passes through Mbeya, a town second in size only to Dar es Salaam, then it traverses the Makambako Plateau adjacent to the Kpengere Ranges followed by the wilds of the Kazimzumbwi Forest and the savannah-wooded plains of the Mikumi national park. The highlight of this trip, however, has to be the Selous Game Reseve where, if you’re lucky, you’ll spot elephants, monkeys, gibbons, zebras, giraffes and more. If you can’t afford to fork out for a safari, then this is definitely the next best thing.

It’s worth remembering that once you cross the border from Zambia into Tanzania, you can only use Tanzanian Shillings. Likewise when the Tamar crosses into Zambia, the restaurant staff will only accept Zambian Kwacha. Money changers do get on the train before the border so it’s possible to get some local currency.

Sleeping Options

From Kapiri Mposhi to Dar es Salaam travellers have the choice of three classes, 1st, 2nd and 3rd. The standards of compartments vary somewhat and while you might get a doors that lock and windows that open you’re just as likely to find that your fan is on the blink and the lights haven’t worked for years. Nevertheless, the trains are all clean and you might even find a working shower on board.

1st Class

This sleeper class has 4-berth sleeping compartments. All sleepers are single sex so men and women will be in separate compartments unless your group books the complete compartment. First class passengers have access to a lounge car with comfortable seats, cold drinks and, if you’re lucky, West African music videos playing continuously at high volume.

2nd Class

Second class sleeper trains have simple 6-berth compartments and are a popular choice with locals and travellers alike so can get crowded.

There are also 2nd class seats which are upholstered reclining seats – fine for a short journey, less comfortable for a 40-hour plus journey.

3rd Class

Basic hard seats.

Prices

• New Kapiri Mposhi to Dar es Salaam
• 1st class sleeper (4-berth) – $40
• 2nd class sleeper – $35
• 2nd class seat – $30
• 3rd class seat – $25

Tickets must be booked and purchased prior to boarding the train.

Children

Children under 7 travel free, children under 15 pay half fare.