Southern Italy's Hidden Gems

From €1100 per person (based on two people travelling)

Southern Italy's Hidden Gems

Places you will stay in:


  • Donalegge Country House
     
    Donalegge Country House

    Eleven stylish rooms are on offer at this old farmhouse. Expect contemporary design, wonderful views and unbelievably tasty food.

  • Agriturismo Gigliotto
     
    Agriturismo Gigliotto

    This wonderful old farmhouse started life as a monastery and now houses 14 bright and breezy rooms set around a magnificent courtyard.

  • Lama Di Luna
     
    Lama di Luna

    Eco-chic in a stunning 18th century organic farm. The building has been sensitively restored to provide nine gorgeous bedrooms complete with their own original fireplace.

  • Trulli Country House
     
    Trulli Country House

    Rustic country retreat designed using traditional materials and modern furnishings surrounded by olive and lemon trees.

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Rome? Been there. Florence? Done that. Forget the tried and tested and head south to discover some of Italy's hidden gems instead.

The Journey

Throw away the road map and opt for the ferry and train on this leisurely tour of Naples, Sicily and Puglia.

Begin in Naples, Italy's third-largest city which literally throbs with life. Its people, culture and history lend the city an energy so magnetic that it's hard not to fall in love with the place, even if it does make your head spin. Next stop is Palermo, equally vibrant and chaotic but with a distinct eastern bazaar feel. Take things down a notch and travel off the beaten track into the centre of Sicily via the ancient towns of Polizzi Generosa and Piazza Armerina before catching the train to Puglia where you can sample the region's famous red wines and brush up on your history.

Stunning accommodation seems par for the course in Italy and here we've chosen four farmhouses set in some of the country's most scenic corners. Wake up in a country retreat surrounded by olive groves, sample the local produce from an 18th century organic farm, relax in a converted farmhouse that seamlessly mixes traditional materials and contemporary designs and revel in the fact that in most places, there's simply no-one else around.

Trip Length

We recommend 14 days for this trip.

Price

This trip starts from €1100 per person (based on two sharing). This includes ferry and train tickets, car hire and bed and breakfast.

What to Do

...in Naples (Day 1)

Experience the bright lights of Naples, a lively city that hides as many contrasts as it does pizza parlours. On one side you have the beauty of the Bay of Naples and on the other stands Scampia, the Naples slum, the locals are warm and friendly, but the city also has a reputation for street crime and dusty antique shops sit side by side swanky boutiques. It's these contradictions, however, that makes this city buzz with energy.

Old Naples is linked to new by the mainly pedestrianised via Toldeo that's bookended by the National Archaeological Museum at one end and the Capodimonte museum at the other. Other places worth exploring are San Gregorio Armeno and its artisan workshops, Piazza San Domenico Maggiore and the dozens of cafes surrounding its baroque church and the mysterious church of San Lorenzo beneath which lies a Roman street.

...in Palermo, Sicily (Day 2)

The overnight ferry from Naples will get you in to Palermo just in time for breakfast. Sunny Palermo's colourful history (the Phoenicians, Arabs, Normans, Swabians and Spaniards have all fought over this city) can be seen in its architecture, food, people and general commotion of the city.

At the centre of old Palermo stands the Quattro Canti, a baroque intersection that outlines the original four city quarters. Step into any one of them and you'll find yourself in a warren of narrow streets and alleyways. One of the many city highlights is the Cappella Palatina at the Norman Place. Once one of the finest courts of medieval Europe, the Plazzo dei Normanni houses the private chapel of Roger II and is a breath-taking example of combined Arab-Norman craftsmanship. Another must-see is the Vucciria, Palermo's outdoor market that's filled with colour, energy and the odd freshly-caught shark. For entertainment of a different kind, catch a 'pupi' show, one of Sicily's traditional puppet shows.

...in Polizzi Generosa, Sicily (Days 2 - 4)

Spend a couple of nights at Donalegge Country House. This gorgeous old farmhouse lies near the small town of Polizzi Generosa, roughly 80km from Palermo and can easily be reached by car. The views here are spectacular and food divine.

You'll be hard pressed to leave the Donalegge Country House but the surrounding towns and countryside are well worth a visit. The nearest town is Polizzi Generosa, a maze of side streets, winding alleyways and fabulous cake shops. Nearby lie the rugged Madonie Mountains, home to golden and royal eagles and an abundance of wildflowers. It's a local favourite for hiking but an area often overlooked by visitors to the region - make sure you don't.

...in Piazza Armerina, Sicily (Days 4 - 7)

Accommodation in this area comes in the shape of the Agriturismo Gigliotto, a picturesque farmhouse that started out life as a monastery. The sun-filled rooms are all decorated in the traditional Sicilian style and there's a lovely swimming pool for when the sun shines. Make the most of it and stay three nights.

The area surrounding Piazza Armerina was once known as the "granary of Rome" but these days it's most famous for its Roman mosaics in the Villa Romana del Casale. Just 5km from town, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is the largest and most complex collection of late Roman mosaics in the world. Most well-known is the Room of the Ten Girls which shows young women in bikinis.

Within Piazza Armerina itself is an enormous Cathedral which was built in the 17th-18th century over a pre-existing church and there is also a beautiful medieval quarter that houses an impressive duomo. About 20 minutes' drive away is the lovely hill-top town of Caltagirone and Enna, the provincial capital, offers stunning views over the centre of Sicily.

...in Andria, Puglia (Days 8 - 11)

The Lama di Luna is the epitome of 'green chic' managing to be both super-stylish and at one with the environment. The 180 hectare organic farm is awash with vineyards, cherry-orchards and olive groves so you'll eat and sleep well.

Puglia is a beautiful region and you're guaranteed to be blown away by the scenery. Olive groves carpet the lush countryside, low-lying hills roll into the distance and the old stone architecture is simply picture-perfect.

The region is also renowned for the 'trulli', limestone dwellings common in the southern end of Puglia that are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Constructed from roughly worked limestone boulders, these dwellings are examples of drywall (mortarless) construction, a prehistoric building technique that is still in use in the region. Look out for their domed or conical roofs as you're travelling.

The city of Barletta is famous for its Colossus of Barletta, a bronze statue thought to represent the Roman Emperor Theodosius II and its magnificent Cathedral which represents a good example of the fusion of Gothic and Roman styles.

And, when you've had enough culture, Barletta is very good for the beach!

...in Cisternino, Puglia (Days 11 - 14)

Take refuge for three nights at Trulli Country House, a country retreat that seemlessly blends rustic traditions with minimalist style. Expect polished cement floors, whitewashed walls, quirky furnishings and fantastic hospitality.

Alberobello, the original "Trulli Town", has been designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO and is simply beautiful. Also in this area is the town of Grottaglie which has a long tradition of craftsmanship. Pick up some hand-made crockery or a traditional 'Cavazone' - the vats used to store wine and olive oil.

Just west of Bari stands the Castel del Monte, a fine example of the melting pot of cultures present in Puglia. It was built by a German Emperor in the 13th century but remains in almost perfect condition today. Like Alberobello, it's also designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Bari itself is famous as the place where 'Peter the Hermit', a French religious leader, preached the first crusade in 1095.

How to Travel

A combination of ferry, train and hybrid car hire not only gives you a different perspective on Italy, you'll get the chance to meet some locals too.

The Route

Day 1: Overnight Ferry Naples to Palermo, Sicily

From Naples board a ferry for Palermo, the beautiful harbour town on the north-western coast of Sicily. Ferries depart daily at 8pm from Naples arriving in Palermo at 6.30am the following morning. In the summer months there are extra ferry services on Saturday departing at 9.30am and 10.30pm.

Day 4: Drive Polizzi Generosa to Piazza Armerina, Sicily

Where possible hire a hybrid car or if one's not available, opt for a small vehicle. Only 90km separates these two towns and the drive will take you through ancient country villages and stunning countryside.

Day 7: Overnight train Palermo, Sicily to Bari, Puglia

Drive back to Palermo and drop off your hire car. Here you can catch an overnight train that arrives in Bari the next morning. There are various options on offer and all require at least one change. The train departing at 6.40pm arrives in Bari at 7.48am, you will have to change trains in Villa S. Giovanni at 11.25pm. Trains also depart during the day and take around 15 hours.

Once you arrive in Bari, hire a hybrid car and drive to Andria, 57km away.

Day 11: Drive Andria to Cisternino, Puglia, 131km

Puglia is stunning and you can choose to drive this distance in one go or stop in small country towns along the way.

Day 14: Drive Cisternino to Bari, Puglia or train to Naples

Having a car here makes visiting some of the sites and historic towns that much easier. Take your time to drive to Bari and from here you can go full circle and catch a train back to Naples where your journey began. Trains depart frequently between Bari and Naples and take four to five hours.

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